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1: Preface

  • Page ID
    90424
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    This book is divided into three types of information. The first is in the main chapters. Here is where you learn photography with your camera nearby as you read. Terms in headers and in bold are fairly key to the learning, but the concepts covered are equally (if not more) important. 

    Sidebars

    Whenever text appears like this in a box, you don’t have to read it. It is just additional information that you might (or might not!) find interesting.

    Learning photography doesn’t work in a vacuum, so the second type of information consists of stories and links to other photographers’ work. The stories are just to introduce a choice of photographers to investigate. The links to photographers are the important part.

    You have to be doing to learn, so the third type of information steps you through the workings of Adobe Photoshop Camera Raw or Lightroom while you are using the application. There are other excellent applications out there, but these applications are the most ubiquitous.

    Finally, this book strives for clarity, but different students have different ways of learning things. If you find that you need extra help with a term or concept, Google it—an often overlooked solution.

    What do you need?

    1. Reading Device

    You could read this book on a computer, but a tablet is far better. Tablets don’t have to cost a lot—a 7 inch Amazon Fire can be had for $30 on sale ($50 regular price), and even though it is largely ad space for Amazon, it will display PDFs like this book fine, although with some awkward scrolling required for each page. 

    Since this book had to be formatted for some device, it is formatted for an iPad (9.7 and 10.5 inch). So, this is the best choice for reading without scrolling to see a whole page. Any iPad will display the book properly, so if you are short on cash, consider getting a used one. Other brands of tablets will probably work fine, but since they come in many different formats and sizes, it is impossible to predict how they render views of the pages.

    While you are at it, get a good PDF reader application. I use GoodReader and PDF Expert by Readdle, but a free alternative such as Adobe Acrobat Reader also works well. Both of these applications allow you to navigate easily, take notes on pages, and open hyperlinks in the text. 

    Note: This book is almost impossible to read on the small screen of a phone, although you could use it for referencing specific pages such as the application instructions.

    2. Computer for Image Editing

    Although this book is written for using a Macintosh computer, any other brand will work with a few changes in the keystrokes noted. Mostly you just need to know that on a Windows computer the Alt key is the same as the Option key on a Mac and the Windows key is the same as the Command key.

    The Camera Raw component of Adobe Photoshop. The workspace is a little daunting at first. This book will lead you through it.

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    3. Photoshop Camera Raw or Lightroom

    If you are reading this as part of a class, chances are you have access to Adobe Photoshop, which includes Camera Raw as a component and Lightroom Classic separately. If you are not, there are other image editing applications out there which are cheaper and might even fit your needs better. The application instruction sections (blue bars at the top of the pages) of this book are tailored to Adobe applications, however, and when they discuss a control or term, they describe how to find it in Camera Raw or Lightroom Classic. You are on your own finding it in another application.

    4. Camera

    A good digital camera with a memory card (32–128GB) is the most essential need here, and you won’t learn much if you use a cellphone camera or even a small point and shoot camera. Image quality, flexibility, and ease of control are all much better on a good camera. So, how can you tell if it is a good camera?

    It should have manual exposure controls. These cameras are identified by having Program (P) Shutter-priority (S or Tv), Aperture priority (A or Av), and Manual (M) modes. There will be a dial (usually on the top of the camera) with the selections P, AV, TV, and M (or P, S, A, and M). Make sure the camera has at least all four of these settings.

    Make sure your camera has all four of these settings on the main dial.

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    Stick with the major brands and get one with an interchangeable lens. You don’t need more lenses, but these cameras are the better ones. Cameras are not changing too much nowadays, and if you get a new one, you will have a very good camera for years. If you can afford a better one than the cheapest line, you may or may not want to get it. These are generally just more rugged and have more fluid controls—things you may not need.

    Digital SLR camera. These all have changeable lenses, although the standard lens is all you need for this book.

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    Manufacturer’s refurbished cameras may also be a good option. These come with the standard warranty and in many ways are as good as a new camera (although they are usually slightly older models). And don’t forget to ask your uncle if he has a used camera that he would consider a loan or a donation. 

    RECOMMENDATION 1: Digital Single Lens Reflex (DSLR) camera. These are the ones that are large because they have a moving mirror inside that directs the light to the eyepiece. Currently the cheaper Canon EOS cameras and Nikon D cameras are examples of this kind of camera. These start at around $500, but new older models are less expensive. 

    ALSO RECOMMENDATION 1: If you want a smaller camera with the same image quality as a DSLR, look at mirrorless cameras. These are also more stylish nowadays and have some advantages such as being quieter. Any of these that have changeable lenses will work great. Canon, Panasonic, Sony, and Olympus are reliable brands. Again, make sure you get one with an interchangeable lens. These start around $600, but like the DSLRs, new older models are less expensive. 

    Relative size difference of a DSLR (on left) and mirrorless camera. These two cameras have similar capabilities and are from the same manufacturer.

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    DSLR or Mirrorless?

    Both types of cameras take the same quality of photograph, so neither are better. But they are different. If you have a hard time deciding, maybe borrow one of each and try them out. You can at least hold them in your hand at a local store.

    Camera Quality

    You might notice that cameras come with widely different price tags. But even the cheapest new DSLR or mirrorless camera with the standard lens will take just as good a photograph as the most expensive—at least most of the time. So, why are some cameras more expensive? 

    Build quality: More expensive cameras generally are made with more metal than plastic, which gives them more resistance to abuse. Of course, it also makes them heavier.

    Water resistance: More expensive cameras have seals that protect them from incidental moisture. Rain, exploding bananas, and such.

    Easy controls: Generally, the more you spend on a camera, the easier it is to control the parameters of how a photograph is exposed. So, instead of controlling the shutter speed and aperture with one dial and a button, there will be two dials.

    Bigger sensor: As discussed elsewhere, a bigger sensor gives better quality. But for most of the photographs anyone takes, the smaller sensor of popular DSLRs and mirrorless cameras will produce indistinguishable results.

    Better photographs: Okay, it was stated that cheaper cameras and lenses take just as good photographs as expensive ones. This was qualified with most of the time. If you are taking photographs of architecture, landscapes, or anything else where sharpness across the entire picture is crucial and big prints will be made, more money spent can lead to better photographs. This also holds true with many other special uses and with lenses. For example, I doubt that you can get an extreme telephoto lens that has good optics and doesn’t cost a lot. Even more so with a telephoto that allows for low-light shooting.

    RECOMMENDATION 2: You can also spend much less on a camera by buying it used, but beware. I have had students who have been shortchanged on eBay with malfunctioning cameras. A ten-year old Canon or Nikon DSLR can still be a great camera (although it might not have a movie function) and it can easily cost less than a hundred dollars. Make sure it comes with a battery (which may need replacing) and a battery charger. 

    RECOMMENDATION 3: If you need a cheaper new camera, and are willing to sacrifice image quality, a smaller camera with a fixed (non-interchangeable) lens is an option. Make sure it has the mode controls mentioned before—look for a dial that has the letters P, A (or Av), S (or Tv), and M. Make sure it has ALL of these settings.

    This last one isn’t a recommendation as much as it is a resignation. I have taught digital photography to hundreds of students, and all of the serious students with these cameras have wished they had a better camera by mid-semester.

    A good web site for reviews of digital cameras is Digital Photography Review—there is certainly more information than you would want, but you can just read the summaries to know more about a camera. 

    Stay away from off-brand cameras, and turn down your grandpa’s offer to loan you his prized Kodak camera. Unless it is a DSLR, gently tell him that the thing is probably a piece of junk in today's world and you really need a newer and better camera.

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